is another man’s freedom fighter.

The Washington Post gets the best story out of Iraq so far this year, I’d have to say its my favorite in the last year altogether, with writer Joshua Partlow and photographer Andrea Bruce hanging with the PKK (Kurdish Worker’s Party) in northern Iraq during and after Turkey’s recent invasion. Check out Bruce’s slideshow, there are some amazing pictures in there.
Sounds like the Turks are trying to save face:
The conclusion of the eight-day battle last Friday along Iraq’s northern border was described by Turkey’s government as the scheduled end to a successful incursion that crippled its enemies, destroying hundreds of their caves and hideouts. But ultimately the battle ended where it had begun, with the intractable guerrillas in sole control of hundreds of miles of mountainous terrain.
Turkey, the US and EU have designated the PKK a terrorist organization.
What was clear was that years in these snowcapped mountains have forged the fighters into rugged ascetics. Although they have based themselves in northern Iraq, they are oriented elsewhere, choosing even to live on Turkish time, an hour behind Iraq’s. They are based in the heart of the Islamic Middle East but are largely uninterested in religion or the cultures they abandoned in Turkey, Syria, Iran and Iraq. They relate their struggle to those of the American revolutionaries who fought the British crown, and the Cuban guerrillas who followed Fidel Castro down from the Sierra Maestra mountains.
“We are fighting for democracy, for freedom,” said Osman Delbrine, a 32-year-old guerrilla with eight years in the mountains. “We are fighting for peace and for all Kurds in all nations.”
The firsthand accounts from northern Iraq differ greatly from what the Turkish government says about the group, who they say want to overtake Ankara and piss all over their “Turkishness”.
The PKK leaders say they are no longer fighting for an independent Kurdish state, or even to replicate or expand the semiautonomous Kurdish region in Iraq. Rather, they say, they want their people to speak Kurdish in schools, to receive national identification cards, to have equal rights for women, to avoid persecution by state security forces, and to gain respect and political influence wherever they live. To walk among the guerrillas, however, is to feel some are also fighting to prolong their communal, socialist experiment and to be left alone.
“In society, in the cities, I feel like someone is choking me,” said Berivan, a 27-year-old female guerrilla. “In the mountains I feel free.”
To say that Partlow and Bruce went after the story would be an understatement:
Although the PKK welcomes visitors, the Kurdistan Regional Government of northern Iraq has tried to bar outsiders, particularly journalists, from entering the area where the authorities effectively tolerate the guerrillas. After receiving an invitation to tour the area, The Post’s journalists hiked for eight hours, first up a rocky path for herders to the top of a mountain overlooking Kurdish towns to the south, then down a precipitous slope a local guide said was littered with land mines. Along the way, it was necessary to shimmy across a steel bridge mangled by Turkish bombs and crouch below boulders when warplanes flew overhead. The mountains rang with the spatter of gunfire and the discharge of distant bombs. At dusk, the first guerrilla — wearing camouflage and carrying a Kalashnikov rifle — appeared from behind a tree in a rock-strewn ravine. Others soon emerged, and one of them held out his hand.
“Welcome to our mountain,” he said in English.