

When I visited the area around Peshawar in 2006 there were lots of potheads who loved folk music but no Taliban arguing how to excecute “spies.”
Peshawar, a Pakistani city of a million that sits on the Grand Trunk Road between Islamabad and Kabul, has been in the news recently. In short, the Pakistani Taliban have moved into surrounding areas and seem to be ready to assault the city. The Pakistani Army responded this weekend by shelling the militants.
Peshawar is the capital of North West Frontier Province, areas I visited in 2006. One of the major Nu Taliban hubs is Mardan, a small city that I went to when it was Taliban-free. From Mardan, I traveled 15 miles northwest to spend a few days in a small village called Khatti Garri. There, I found much Taliban sympathy, but no blatant sign that militant Islam would so quickly infiltrate the area.
Below is my journal from the trip. It offers a unique perspective on the people who live in what has become a Taliban hotbed. I found the Pushtu or Pathan (both words can be used, though I like the way the latter sounds better) people of NWFP to be funny, open-minded, and hospitable—and insane potheads, worse than Jamaican Rastas. I even went to a DIY folk concert.
March 2006, Pakistan.
We’re on the road before sunrise. My childhood friend Zaryan, whose family I was visiting in Pakistan, are heading to North West Frontier Province, Pakistan’s untamed badlands. Driving us is Ijazz, a bulky, bearded 27-year-old who works as a driver for Zaryan’s family’s house. Zaryan convinced him to take us to his village of Katti Garri, two hours north of Peshawar, NWFP’s capital.
From Islamabad, we drive an hour on an express highway before jumping on the famed Grand Trunk Road, a four-lane road crowded with flashy painted buses. A sign: Welcome to the North West Frontier Province, Peace Be Upon You. The 25-plus million who live in NWFP are of the same Pathan or Pashtun ethnic group that populates Afghanistan’s eastern flank. The province is among earth’s most untamed landscapes—a dangerous place of tribes and terrorists, smuggling and war, where kidnapping, rape, guns, honor killing, Sharia law, and drugs proliferate.
On Peshawar’s dusty, chrome-sky outskirts, we pass a bus station where 60 twisted black charred bus hulks sat, remnants of Danish cartoon violence (some Danish paper had run an illustration of the Prophet with a bomb as turban) looking like the aftermath of a firestorm. I beg Ijazz to stop, but he has a schedule: His wife, who he hadn’t seen in two weeks, expects him home by noon. Just before entering central Peshawar, we turn north.
An hour passes before we hit Mardan, a rough trade hub. Its main drag bustles. People throng around open-air stalls. Bbq grilles are next to bootleg DVDs stands. We sped by the town’s finest building, a white walled, 70-ft green-domed Mosque. I’d read stories in Dawn newspaper about marauding kidnapping gangs taking hostages for ransom and terrorizing Mardan. Unlike in Peshawar, I did not beg Ijazz to stop.
Ijazz soon veers off the main road to a series of one-lane paved and unpaved tracks that wind through rice fields and past stone house conglomerates. Ijazz calls these “mini-villages.” Few cars are on the road. Occasionally, we roar past a beat-up egg shaped bus or an old truck stacked with too much cargo overflowing with people hanging on the sides, back, and roof. I see no women on the streets, but do see a lot of men riding black bikes that looked like beach cruisers with colorful plastic beads attached to the spokes—the wheels whirling rainbows.
“We’re almost there,” Ijazz announces with pride. He drives with caution along the dirt road approach to his hometown.
The village of Katti Garri lies on a riverbank in the middle of an arid plain, though hovering nearby are a few small, chunky brown mountains that looked like rock candy. Some 4,000 people live in the village, all in slate and/or brick houses. Wood is a luxury in resource-starved Pakistan, and trees scarce across the surrounding flatlands.
After parking, Zaryan, Ijazz, and I walk on muddy roads barely wide enough for a car. Red, black, and green flags flutter above buildings, all slate and brick with few windows. “There is no police force here,” Ijazz says. “In Katti Garri Islam is law.”
After jump, hash fiends dominate NWFP youth culture.
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